Head lines of the world wine ratings, ecstatic reviews of international experts, admiration of the world’s keen gourmets – the great Rioja wines have long acquired all these signs of recognition and fame.
Rioja’s true potential
It’s hard to believe that some hundred years ago bland and obscure wines used to be characteristic of this Spanish region. The noticeable rise in quality of the local wines is connected with the name of Marques de Riscal. He was the one to challenge the region’s winemaking traditions and show Rioja’s true potential to the world.
The story goes back to 1858, when the government of the Spanish Alava province decided that it was high time for the winemaking elite to appreciate Rioja. And was there anyone who could do the task better than Don Camilo Hurtado de Amézaga, also known as Marques de Riscal? Free-thinker, diplomat, journalist and owner of a winery on the Torrea Estate in Elciego, Marques de Riscal has lived outside his home country, in Bordeaux, since 1836, where he got himself acquainted with the many subtleties of winemaking with his inherent curiousity.
He was asked to find a French wine expert to train local producers in the winemaking techniques used in Bordeaux. Don Camilo hired Jean Pineau, a winemaker at the French Château Lanessan. After sending the wine expert to Rioja Marques de Riscal sent “9,000 vines of the highest quality”. The original bouquet consisted of the finest French grape varieties including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec and Pinot Noir. It was suggested that Rioja winemakers who until that time were familiar only with local grapes should experiment with the French stuff.
The combined efforts of the French wine expert and owners of the wineries were not wasted. Very soon they managed to produce rich and thick wines that had great potential to mature, and all because of the casks from Bordeaux – a novelty brought straight from the heart of French winemaking. Unfortunately, the new Spanish wine with a French twist was in for some trouble: it was too expensive. That’s why Rioja winemakers hastily reversed to traditional techniques and continued making wine in the old way. There was only one man who hadn’t turn his back on Jean Pineau, and it was Riscal. He trusted the French expert and decided to take him under his wing.
In 1860, following the arrangement with Marques de Riscal, Spanish architect Ricardo Belsola left his homeland and went to Bordeaux to study the famous chateaus of Medoc, Graves and Saint-Emilion. When he came back he immediately showed the Marques the project of a winery designed in the style of the French medieval architecture. There were huge ashlar-faced cellars and underground gallery-like passageways beyond one’s imagination. The estate also got newest winemaking equipment from Bordeaux and its own cooper’s shop where the first Rioja casks a la Bordeaux were made under the guidance of Jean’s son Charles.
Marques de Riscal’s revolution
At the time the overall area of Riscal’s vineyards was 39 hectares. ¾ of it were occupied by local grapes: Tempranillo, Garnacha and Masuelo. ¼ was assigned for experiments: it was there that the first fruits of the foreign saplings were anticipated with trepidation. Would it be a success? 5 long years had passed before the rewards could be reaped. The success was tremendous! The revolutionary approach of the innovative Spanish winemaker was approved not only in the once-sleepy Rioja but also at the international level, getting many awards at wine exhibitions in Dublin, Paris, Vienna, and then again in Paris. Finally they succeeded! Riscal did what no one had managed to do before. He got the Honorary Diploma of the Bordeaux Wine Exhibition. It was a full and unconditional victory. Bordeaux was at his feet. God knows he had been working on it for all his life. Marques de Riscal smiled at everyone at once and noone in particular: faces, tuxedos, flowers, wineglasses had all mixed before his eyes just like he had mixed different grape varieties. Even the letters of the Honorary Diploma of the 13th Bordeaux Wine Exhibition seemed to cheer with him: no other foreign winery had ever been given such an honour. Marques de Riscal was the first to prove that Rioja wines are not a disgustingly smelling juice as it was thought before, but a notable wine with a strong character and rich flavour.
Young Rueda wines
However, the pioneer research of winery owners didn’t stop at that. A century later the company founded by Marques de Riscal was still a rebellious spirit. The rest of the winemakers only shook their heads and purse their lips discussing yet another idea of the winery. This time in Rueda the winery started making young, refreshing fruity whites with a pronounced personality from indigenous Verdejo grapes. Following the whites the red wine again was brought to the spotlight: it was Riscal 1860, a symbol of revival very popular in the market as well.
Today Marques de Riscal continues to occupy the leading position bringing to life more and more new ideas. However, the foundations remain unchanged: highest quality and continuous control, hiring French wine experts to work at the wineries and the famous wine cellars. As a result of production growth the cellars had to be rebuilt thrice since the opening of the winery and each time expanded. Another great project was the construction of the City of Wine, and later a luxury 43-room hotel.
The owners are especially proud of the glass elevator that takes you to the wine cellar where you can taste the legendary wines by Marques de Riscal.
Tina Hukki
Photoreport
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